Dog-owners in Vienna, Austria, are being encouraged to take a "driving licence" for their pets.
A two-hour two-part exam will testhow tolerant owners are of other animals and whether they understand the finer points of dog-ownership.
Owners take a 150-question, multiple-choice test on topics such as why a dog wags its tail, what it means when it yawns, and whether it is a good idea to take it shopping.
In the practical part of the exam, owners are put through their paces, having to prove they can put on a muzzle, pick up droppings and take the dog on the underground system.
The licence, a "hundeführerschein" was introduced by Vienna's environmental councillor, Ulli Sima.
She said: "We are trying to improve the way in which dogs function in the capital as well as testing their and their owners' social skills. In so doing we're satisfying the safety needs of the population."
The focus, she said, was on "social tolerance rather than pure obedience".
Those happy owners who pass their "licence" - or Hundefuehrerschein - will be exempt from the annual dog tax of about 43 euro and will receive a few goodies for their pets, from vouchers for a new leash to bags for their pet's droppings.
The initiative was triggered by a survey of 500 Viennese residents in September 2004 in which a surprising 85 percent backed the idea of instituting a "driving licence for dogs".
[dogs]
[dog news]
Missing Whippet seen in NY
Blomberg.net reports that Vivi, the missing whippet has been seen again. Apparently the Westminster Dog Show champion was glimpsed several times in New York's Flushing neighborhood during the past week.The latest sighting was... at 3:45 a.m. Tuesday, New York time, when a man spotted Vivi in Flushing Cemetery. He took his Doberman into the cemetery and the two dogs touched noses, according to a search volunteer.
The whippet's owners have posted a $5,000 reward for her, and the search has drawn more than a hundred volunteers to the New York suburb, located about 10 miles north of JFK Airport.
Volunteers plan a stakeout on March 25, when they will assign teams to different areas to stay put and watch for the whippet to make an appearance. In the meantime, traps have been set in the cemetary, and the owners are hopeful that they will soon have their dog back.
Vivi is a purebred whippet, which resembles a miniature greyhound. She is mostly white with dark brown stripes called brindle. She has brown ears and a dark head, with what looks like a white stripe down her face. Whippets are fast, and can hit speeds of up to 25 mph within seconds from a virtual standstill.
[dog news]
[dogs]
The whippet's owners have posted a $5,000 reward for her, and the search has drawn more than a hundred volunteers to the New York suburb, located about 10 miles north of JFK Airport.
Volunteers plan a stakeout on March 25, when they will assign teams to different areas to stay put and watch for the whippet to make an appearance. In the meantime, traps have been set in the cemetary, and the owners are hopeful that they will soon have their dog back.
Vivi is a purebred whippet, which resembles a miniature greyhound. She is mostly white with dark brown stripes called brindle. She has brown ears and a dark head, with what looks like a white stripe down her face. Whippets are fast, and can hit speeds of up to 25 mph within seconds from a virtual standstill.
[dog news]
[dogs]
Different Types of Aggression in Dogs
Aggression is one of the main reason dogs are euthanised or rehomed. At least 30% of all dogs in rescue centres are there because of the incidence of aggression in one form or another. It is actually unusual to have a dog that is aggressing to have just one type, Most dogs have more than one of the following types of behaviour...
It would be prudent before embarking on any program of aggressive behaviour modification, to rule out any medical reasons for that behaviour, especially if there is a sudden change in the dog’s temperament. Their are some fifty-odd different medical reasons why a dog may be showing aggressive tendencies, these range from Pain to Thyroid Dysfunction, Epilepsy Hypoglycaemia and Diabetes. This is only a part of the different types of aggression, because of the constraints of space it can only be a fleeting reference. I have covered fully “Food Guarding “and “Object and Possession Aggression”in previous articles in Dogs Monthly (one of the numerous magazines I write articles for)
1. Fear / Nervous Aggression (Interdog)
Quite often, this behaviour has its roots directly to the pup’s mother. Breeders that breed from fearful and timid bitches will often make excuses as to why you cannot see the dam. If you do view a litter of puppies and the mother is fearful then do not even consider buying a puppy. It is almost certain that the pups will inherit some of the mother’s traits, through both genetics and socialisation, genetically the pups may inherit her timidity and through the time they are with her will observe her fear and follow suit.
Scientific research has shown that even pups that are born to a solid and stable mother are then put with a bitch that is fearful, they will pick up some of the unstable habits from the fearful dog, especially in weeks three through to seven. Other reasons for this fear type of problem is when a puppy or adult dog is attacked by another dog, especially whilst on the lead, especially if the dog has no means of escape or is restricted from showing submissive body language to the attacker. If we then comfort the injured or frightened dog we only confirm that the fear is real and that wil only make matters worse.
Lack of early socialisation can also have an affect on this type of behaviour, If the young pup, especially between the age of seven and sixteen weeks, is not carefully socialised with both adult and pups alike, then they do not learn to “meet and greet” . The complex body language dogs learn at this age is crucial to their later behaviour when approaching unknown dogs. If they are unable to either perform or understand the greeting rituals, then they are immediately viewed with suspicion by the approaching dog, and conflict may arise
How can you tell if it is fear?
With nervous and fear aggressive dogs, you will find that they will react similarly to any dog, regardless of whether it is male or female. The behaviour is often worse if the dog is on the lead or is cornered, especially if close to the owner, who backs up the behaviour, (though unwittingly) by becoming nervous and agitated as another dog approaches.
This manifests itself in a tightening up on the lead and shoulders because of the expectation of conflict. Nervous owners also kick out a cloud of adrenaline that the dog instantly detects a causes it to look for what is causing the concern. It sees the dog approaching and reacts accordingly. This type of dog is also normally a barker, it will lunge and bark at the approaching dog but generally will not snap, unless all its options have run out ie flight or freeze and after all its threat posturing the other dog has still got too close.
This problem can often be diagnosed if someone who is confident around dogs (that the dog does not know well) takes it out on the lead. It will not get the same fearful vibes from the owner, therefore the reaction to another dogs approaching will be less intense. It is a good way of finding out if your dog suffers fear aggression as the behaviour will either not be exhibited or will be less pronounced. The owner can then use a desensitisation program for both the dog and themselves.
2. Fear / Nervous Aggression (Inter-human)
Once again, this can be caused through lack of early socialisation, bad breeding and sometimes lack of handling at an early age, starting as young as two weeks old. Pups that are not handled gently and often by the breeder, do not get the strong olfactory and tactile bond with humans. This is often the case with puppy farmed dogs and dogs born to large breeders. This handling at such an early age causes a mild stress response in the tiny pup, which benefits its ability to cope with many situations including people and dogs in later life
Nervous and fear aggressing is always defensive in nature, sometimes it is related to the sex of the person. If the breeder was female, and very few males visited or handled the puppies then the timidity and fear may be worse with men. This particular problem like interdog hostility, will manifest itself mainly with individuals rather than crowds. You will find that the puppy/dog will bark a lot but will be under a table or behind a settee. The tail will be down and although it may seem overtly aggressive, the dogs balance and weight will be on the back foot not over the front feet. This demonstrates that the dog wants you to go away and is not always initially trying to bite or attack you. A gradual and careful introduction to the stimulus that is causing the fear with positive reinforcement for calm behaviour is the way to overcome this type of problem though the dog will rarely make a total and full recovery and will be life and soul of the park parties.
3. Frustration Aggression
Research has shown that dogs who are not allowed to interact “normally” with people and dogs who were prone to displays of bad temper and behaviour that was overtly aggressive are dogs that are generally physically restrained or restricted from normal interactions (interactions with people, other dogs, and the outside world). The more the dog develops an intense desire to gain access to all of those things he desires.
This desire can escalate into escape and roaming behaviour, agitation, biting and unprovoked attacks. It is often observed in dogs that are left tied up in flats, left in gardens, or near a window where they can see the things they want to interact with, but cannot get to them display unprovoked aggression. To some extent the aggression shown to the postman is sometimes based on frustration. I have seen dogs attack their owner or a second dog in the home because it cannot get to the delivery man.
4. Sexual aggression.
This type of aggression is usually limited to male dogs. They will mount both people and other dogs. Mounting activity directed towards humans may reflect a lack of opportunity for the dog to play with other dogs, or an over-attachment to people in early life, Mounting on other dogs especially if they initially try to put their heads over the other dogs necks can be related to rank and control complex behaviour. Castration and behaviour modification can help with this problem. Allowing the dog to mate may often be recommended by the amateur dog expert, this normally makes the problem far worse.
5 Territorial Aggression
This may be towards other dogs, people or both. By definition, territorial aggression should be directed toward members of the same species ie other dogs. Domestic dogs, however, seem to regard humans as conspecific and consequently may direct territorial aggression toward us When dogs display aggression to strangers only on the home property garden, house, or yard, yet do not respond aggressively to strangers on neutral territory, then territorial aggression is the likely diagnosis. There are two primary motivations for territorial behaviour, control complex behaviour ie dominance or fear/anxiety. It may be worse in a small space such as a car than in an open area . Some dogs like this can be fine in the home, but not so good in the garden or yard.
Some breeds appear to frustrate much quicker than others, these are generally the working dogs such as Collies, Springer’s Cockers and some Retrievers The only answer to this problem is to work on the dominant/territorial problem in a way in which a dog understands its position through a behaviour modification programme using position reinforcement techniques. Remember not to praise for the cessation of bad behaviour rather praise for that bad behaviour not happening in the first place. In other words, say the dog jumps up on someone and you say “OFF” if the dogs get off then do not praise as you will be praising for the inappropriate behaviour, which was the jumping.
6. Control Complex / Dominant Aggression
The initial approach to other dogs is often cautionary and contains many status signals, like tail carriage held high and quickly moving from side to side, standing on tip toe etc. If the other dog submits, then all is usually fine, if not the fighting can be extremely noisy and in some cases quite severe. In both the last two examples, dominant and territorial aggression, I usually find the dog will pull quite badly on the lead. These dogs can also display aggressive tendency towards members of the family this could lead to an attack if not controlled in their early stages. By working on a programme that will give the dog a purpose and a position in life almost a job and teaching the dog to walk on a loose leash can sometimes overcome the problem. The type of program I would use is the NILIF program which stands for “Nothing in Life is Free” See my website under dominance
7. Chase or Predatory aggression
This can be directed at many things including dogs, cats, or anything that stimulates a chase response. Squirrels are a favourite, as their quick jerky movements seem to stimulate even the most placid of dogs. I see a lot of predatory chase aggression in for instance Border Collies, in particular stimulants like bikes, skateboards joggers and cars.
One of the key factors that distinguish predatory aggression from other forms of aggression is that movement often is the triggers . In the wild, this movement is in the form of running and escape attempts of a small animals. Predatory behaviour can be seen in dogs of any sex and age. Dogs that show intense interest and become aroused or anxious by the movement or noise of children or other pets should be closely monitored at all times. Prognosis is not good for this type of aggression. Reward based obedience training can help however this is only any use if the owner/trainer is able to constantly monitor the dog at all times.
It is easier to control the chase stimulus when it is directed at cars, joggers, or bikes. Two types of common treatment’s include counter-conditioning used to change the dogs’ perception of the falsely identified prey. Many also believe punishment works ie noise aversion when the behaviour is first stimulated. Throwing water from a car window or sounding a rape alarm or air horn at the exact time the dog takes off, throwing down a plastic bottle of stones from a passing bike or car can sometimes alter this behaviour.
However. To be effective, punishment must be seen as aversive and the timing of the punishment must be exact so that the dog associates the punishment with the behaviour. Electric shock collars have also been suggested but are not part of treatment programs I would ever recommend.
As mentioned aggression often has its origins in bad breeding, lack of socialisation, high prey drive, and poor basic training. However, as stated before it can be related to medical conditions and before embarking on a course of behavioural therapy have your dog checked over to see if there are any underlying medical conditions.
Learned aggression can normally be cured however, hereditary aggression cannot, it can only be controlled and hopefully contained. Castration sometimes helps, and should be considered in an overall aggression reduction program.
This article was written by Stan Rawlinson, a full time Dog Behaviourist. You can visit his website at www.doglistener.co.uk for more articles and training information.
[dog training]
[dogs]
It would be prudent before embarking on any program of aggressive behaviour modification, to rule out any medical reasons for that behaviour, especially if there is a sudden change in the dog’s temperament. Their are some fifty-odd different medical reasons why a dog may be showing aggressive tendencies, these range from Pain to Thyroid Dysfunction, Epilepsy Hypoglycaemia and Diabetes. This is only a part of the different types of aggression, because of the constraints of space it can only be a fleeting reference. I have covered fully “Food Guarding “and “Object and Possession Aggression”in previous articles in Dogs Monthly (one of the numerous magazines I write articles for)1. Fear / Nervous Aggression (Interdog)
Quite often, this behaviour has its roots directly to the pup’s mother. Breeders that breed from fearful and timid bitches will often make excuses as to why you cannot see the dam. If you do view a litter of puppies and the mother is fearful then do not even consider buying a puppy. It is almost certain that the pups will inherit some of the mother’s traits, through both genetics and socialisation, genetically the pups may inherit her timidity and through the time they are with her will observe her fear and follow suit.
Scientific research has shown that even pups that are born to a solid and stable mother are then put with a bitch that is fearful, they will pick up some of the unstable habits from the fearful dog, especially in weeks three through to seven. Other reasons for this fear type of problem is when a puppy or adult dog is attacked by another dog, especially whilst on the lead, especially if the dog has no means of escape or is restricted from showing submissive body language to the attacker. If we then comfort the injured or frightened dog we only confirm that the fear is real and that wil only make matters worse.
Lack of early socialisation can also have an affect on this type of behaviour, If the young pup, especially between the age of seven and sixteen weeks, is not carefully socialised with both adult and pups alike, then they do not learn to “meet and greet” . The complex body language dogs learn at this age is crucial to their later behaviour when approaching unknown dogs. If they are unable to either perform or understand the greeting rituals, then they are immediately viewed with suspicion by the approaching dog, and conflict may arise
How can you tell if it is fear?
With nervous and fear aggressive dogs, you will find that they will react similarly to any dog, regardless of whether it is male or female. The behaviour is often worse if the dog is on the lead or is cornered, especially if close to the owner, who backs up the behaviour, (though unwittingly) by becoming nervous and agitated as another dog approaches.
This manifests itself in a tightening up on the lead and shoulders because of the expectation of conflict. Nervous owners also kick out a cloud of adrenaline that the dog instantly detects a causes it to look for what is causing the concern. It sees the dog approaching and reacts accordingly. This type of dog is also normally a barker, it will lunge and bark at the approaching dog but generally will not snap, unless all its options have run out ie flight or freeze and after all its threat posturing the other dog has still got too close.
This problem can often be diagnosed if someone who is confident around dogs (that the dog does not know well) takes it out on the lead. It will not get the same fearful vibes from the owner, therefore the reaction to another dogs approaching will be less intense. It is a good way of finding out if your dog suffers fear aggression as the behaviour will either not be exhibited or will be less pronounced. The owner can then use a desensitisation program for both the dog and themselves.
2. Fear / Nervous Aggression (Inter-human)
Once again, this can be caused through lack of early socialisation, bad breeding and sometimes lack of handling at an early age, starting as young as two weeks old. Pups that are not handled gently and often by the breeder, do not get the strong olfactory and tactile bond with humans. This is often the case with puppy farmed dogs and dogs born to large breeders. This handling at such an early age causes a mild stress response in the tiny pup, which benefits its ability to cope with many situations including people and dogs in later life
Nervous and fear aggressing is always defensive in nature, sometimes it is related to the sex of the person. If the breeder was female, and very few males visited or handled the puppies then the timidity and fear may be worse with men. This particular problem like interdog hostility, will manifest itself mainly with individuals rather than crowds. You will find that the puppy/dog will bark a lot but will be under a table or behind a settee. The tail will be down and although it may seem overtly aggressive, the dogs balance and weight will be on the back foot not over the front feet. This demonstrates that the dog wants you to go away and is not always initially trying to bite or attack you. A gradual and careful introduction to the stimulus that is causing the fear with positive reinforcement for calm behaviour is the way to overcome this type of problem though the dog will rarely make a total and full recovery and will be life and soul of the park parties.
3. Frustration Aggression
Research has shown that dogs who are not allowed to interact “normally” with people and dogs who were prone to displays of bad temper and behaviour that was overtly aggressive are dogs that are generally physically restrained or restricted from normal interactions (interactions with people, other dogs, and the outside world). The more the dog develops an intense desire to gain access to all of those things he desires.
This desire can escalate into escape and roaming behaviour, agitation, biting and unprovoked attacks. It is often observed in dogs that are left tied up in flats, left in gardens, or near a window where they can see the things they want to interact with, but cannot get to them display unprovoked aggression. To some extent the aggression shown to the postman is sometimes based on frustration. I have seen dogs attack their owner or a second dog in the home because it cannot get to the delivery man.
4. Sexual aggression.
This type of aggression is usually limited to male dogs. They will mount both people and other dogs. Mounting activity directed towards humans may reflect a lack of opportunity for the dog to play with other dogs, or an over-attachment to people in early life, Mounting on other dogs especially if they initially try to put their heads over the other dogs necks can be related to rank and control complex behaviour. Castration and behaviour modification can help with this problem. Allowing the dog to mate may often be recommended by the amateur dog expert, this normally makes the problem far worse.
5 Territorial Aggression
This may be towards other dogs, people or both. By definition, territorial aggression should be directed toward members of the same species ie other dogs. Domestic dogs, however, seem to regard humans as conspecific and consequently may direct territorial aggression toward us When dogs display aggression to strangers only on the home property garden, house, or yard, yet do not respond aggressively to strangers on neutral territory, then territorial aggression is the likely diagnosis. There are two primary motivations for territorial behaviour, control complex behaviour ie dominance or fear/anxiety. It may be worse in a small space such as a car than in an open area . Some dogs like this can be fine in the home, but not so good in the garden or yard.
Some breeds appear to frustrate much quicker than others, these are generally the working dogs such as Collies, Springer’s Cockers and some Retrievers The only answer to this problem is to work on the dominant/territorial problem in a way in which a dog understands its position through a behaviour modification programme using position reinforcement techniques. Remember not to praise for the cessation of bad behaviour rather praise for that bad behaviour not happening in the first place. In other words, say the dog jumps up on someone and you say “OFF” if the dogs get off then do not praise as you will be praising for the inappropriate behaviour, which was the jumping.
6. Control Complex / Dominant Aggression
The initial approach to other dogs is often cautionary and contains many status signals, like tail carriage held high and quickly moving from side to side, standing on tip toe etc. If the other dog submits, then all is usually fine, if not the fighting can be extremely noisy and in some cases quite severe. In both the last two examples, dominant and territorial aggression, I usually find the dog will pull quite badly on the lead. These dogs can also display aggressive tendency towards members of the family this could lead to an attack if not controlled in their early stages. By working on a programme that will give the dog a purpose and a position in life almost a job and teaching the dog to walk on a loose leash can sometimes overcome the problem. The type of program I would use is the NILIF program which stands for “Nothing in Life is Free” See my website under dominance
7. Chase or Predatory aggression
This can be directed at many things including dogs, cats, or anything that stimulates a chase response. Squirrels are a favourite, as their quick jerky movements seem to stimulate even the most placid of dogs. I see a lot of predatory chase aggression in for instance Border Collies, in particular stimulants like bikes, skateboards joggers and cars.
One of the key factors that distinguish predatory aggression from other forms of aggression is that movement often is the triggers . In the wild, this movement is in the form of running and escape attempts of a small animals. Predatory behaviour can be seen in dogs of any sex and age. Dogs that show intense interest and become aroused or anxious by the movement or noise of children or other pets should be closely monitored at all times. Prognosis is not good for this type of aggression. Reward based obedience training can help however this is only any use if the owner/trainer is able to constantly monitor the dog at all times.
It is easier to control the chase stimulus when it is directed at cars, joggers, or bikes. Two types of common treatment’s include counter-conditioning used to change the dogs’ perception of the falsely identified prey. Many also believe punishment works ie noise aversion when the behaviour is first stimulated. Throwing water from a car window or sounding a rape alarm or air horn at the exact time the dog takes off, throwing down a plastic bottle of stones from a passing bike or car can sometimes alter this behaviour.
However. To be effective, punishment must be seen as aversive and the timing of the punishment must be exact so that the dog associates the punishment with the behaviour. Electric shock collars have also been suggested but are not part of treatment programs I would ever recommend.
As mentioned aggression often has its origins in bad breeding, lack of socialisation, high prey drive, and poor basic training. However, as stated before it can be related to medical conditions and before embarking on a course of behavioural therapy have your dog checked over to see if there are any underlying medical conditions.
Learned aggression can normally be cured however, hereditary aggression cannot, it can only be controlled and hopefully contained. Castration sometimes helps, and should be considered in an overall aggression reduction program.
This article was written by Stan Rawlinson, a full time Dog Behaviourist. You can visit his website at www.doglistener.co.uk for more articles and training information.
[dog training]
[dogs]
I just don't agree...
I mentioned in an earlier post that Miss Peaches and I were starting obedience classes. Well, we're in week 2 now, and I'm not at all sure that we're in the right place...
This training program was specifically recommended to me, by a local rescue organization, as one that specialized in pit bulls and "aggressive" breeds. Miss Peaches is still very fearful of new people and situations, and when she is scared, she does a "dart in and nip em" move that is very disconcerting (as you can imagine) to the folks she does it to.
I should point out here that her behavior with me is impeccable. She has never, not once, behaved in any way aggressively towards me. There are friends of mine with whom we go for walks, and she's never looked twice at them. On walks, she's very dog friendly, and if people ignore her and let her do her own introductions, she's fine.
She is, however, exquisitely sensitive to tension, stress, and fear "vibes". I assume that is a leftover survival mechanism she developed early on, and I'm sure it served her well then. If she could pick up the vibe early, she could take appropriate action and avoid getting hurt. The problem is that it's not working for her now.
I've been working on building her confidence in strange situations and with meeting a variety of people, using her muzzle and a lot of positive reinforcement. There are definitely measurable changes in her behavior. She's not as skittish when someone reaches out to her. She's even given a few choice people head rubs or rolled over for some bully-belly-lovin. And as long as everybody is relaxed, everything is fine.
Part of the reason I wanted to go to a class was for socializing purposes, and partly to have the - trained - eye of a trainer on us both to help me make sure I'm doing it right. I've "home-schooled" my other dogs successfully, but I have no experience with this kind of problem.
When we arrived for our first class, driving 20 minutes through a hellacious winter storm to get there, I and the other two people who had battled our way there were told by our instructor (let's call her "D") that she was canceling the class for that night. This was so the other four presumptive attendees (who had not shown up or called) would not miss anything. *Aside - This is my problem, exactly how???*
None of us were pleased. Still, we all returned the following week.
That week, we were all told that we should be wearing prong collars, instead of the regular training collar. Prong collars were handed out, and D showed us how to clasp and unclasp them. No mention was made on how to fit them correctly, nor did she point out the difference between the "dead" and "live" links.
(For those of you who were as ignorant about this as I was , there are two possible connecting rings to hook the leash into. The "live" link gives a much stronger correction than the "dead" link. Also, the collar should fit snugly up behind the ears, not down on the neck like a regular collar. Many trainers recommend that the prongs of the collar be centered on the side of the neck away from you, and not directly across the soft underside of the dog's throat. All of this is information I discovered after the fact, on my own.)
This last lesson, the class was working on "heel". In the class is a Retriever puppy who, like so many Retriever puppies, is goofy, exuberant and apparently afflicted with a significant case of ADD. He was having some trouble staying focused, and the frustrated owner was being instructed to give some pretty severe corrections. The puppy began getting very stressed out, and was definitely not having any fun. As he and his owner passed between us and the wall, she gave him another very strong correction, with a very loud "No!"
At this Peaches, who had been getting more and more tense as this exercise progressed made a lunge at this woman, and for the first time ever, growled at her.
She has never acted like this before, since she has been with me. Never.
Peaches was wearing her muzzle (on the Better Safe Than Sorry Principle) and so no harm done. In fact, the owner didn't even really seem to notice the incident.
But honestly, Peaches acts worse in this class than she does at any other time during the week. Granted, it's a stressful situation for her, and that was partly the point, but still...And then, to add the finishing touch, D is now pushing me to use an e-collar (or electronic shock collar) on her.
Which I totally disagree with.
I am not completely against the use of such a collar. I think they can be very effective for some nuisance behaviors such as barking or chasing cars.
But I simply do not see how using one on a fear-aggressive dog is going to be helpful. The purpose of the e-collar is for the dog to associate the unpleasant shock with the behavior. Since in this case the behavior is triggered by stress and fear, it seems to me that there is a pretty good chance that she will associate the shock with the feared thing that triggered it. Which will be a person or another dog. And I just don't see how that can be a good thing.
My gut instinct tells me that an e-collar is the entirely incorrect approach to take with this dog. I believe there is a real chance of ruining her permanently if using this method backfired. And I'm not prepared to take that chance.
I'm going to do more research on this, and I'll post whatever I find. In the meantime, Peaches and I will give this class another chance, but we'll just keep up with our own program of getting out of the house more.
It'll be good for us both.
[dog training]
They shoulda let this sleeping dog lie...
6:00 am Sunday morning at la maison des animaux...
Poodle-Thing Pepito hurtles from the bed to the back door barking as though all the fiends of hell were trying to break in. Joined almost instantly by a full throated chorus from his homies, previously deep in slumber and gently snoring. In the ensuing clamor, cats fly in all directions seeking the high ground. Food bowls flip, kibble scatters generously across the freshly-swept-last-night kitchen floor.
I spring from my bed, instantly jolted from early morning REM by my now-pounding heart. Running to the back door, I flip on the outside light to see... a small raccoon. Probably weighing about 7 pounds, and judging from the tracks in the snow, all alone. And probably trying to sneak in for a couple of handfuls of kibble.
Lord knows I wouldn't have wanted to sleep through that.
After some coaxing, the dogs are convinced that I can handle this imminent danger to life, limb, and the pursuit of happiness, and we all go back to bed.
But not to sleep. Oh, no. That would be too simple. And too kind, even.
15 minutes later, Nola, who is thrashing herself around in her Rat Terrier ritual that precedes sleep, manages to flip herself off the bed and on to the wood floor, where she lands with the resounding thud of a dog 10 times her actual weight.
Heart-rending screams split the quiet. All other dogs return to full alert and full volume. Cats scatter once more. Heart pounds. Sleep retreats swiftly.
Examine Nola for broken bones (none) and injuries (none) and return her to bed. Other dogs return to bed. I return to bed. Much grunting, sighing and turning around. Finally, silence settles.
7:00 am. Peaches moans piteously from her crate, a sound which generally means that she has a tummy issue and has to go outside RIGHT NOW. I stumble out of bed, and pull on a jacket. At the sight of me apparently getting dressed, the canine chorus erupts once more and my ankles are submerged in the tidal wave of dogs. All of whom are now insisting that, yes, they too, have to go outside RIGHT THIS VERY MINUTE!!!
I open the door to a swirling snowstorm. Everyone, and I mean everyone, recoils at the sight of the blizzard outside, and makes a U-turn for bed. Deciding that - you know what - they don't have to go quite as urgently as they thought they did five seconds ago.
No such luck. I pitch the lot of them outside, where they cringe and hunch their backs against the driving snow as they pee, all the while shooting me furtive looks of abandonment and abuse. You know the kind I mean. The squinty looks that suggests that you are the worst dog person on the planet, and that they are the unluckiest dogs ever born.
But my heart has been hardened by repeated false alarms. Pee they must, and pee they do. And are now happy to return to their respective warm beds.
Where we sleep undisturbed until a lazy 10:00 am this morning. Without another peep. From anyone.
Sometimes I can be a bitch too.
[dogs]
Poodle-Thing Pepito hurtles from the bed to the back door barking as though all the fiends of hell were trying to break in. Joined almost instantly by a full throated chorus from his homies, previously deep in slumber and gently snoring. In the ensuing clamor, cats fly in all directions seeking the high ground. Food bowls flip, kibble scatters generously across the freshly-swept-last-night kitchen floor.
I spring from my bed, instantly jolted from early morning REM by my now-pounding heart. Running to the back door, I flip on the outside light to see... a small raccoon. Probably weighing about 7 pounds, and judging from the tracks in the snow, all alone. And probably trying to sneak in for a couple of handfuls of kibble.
Lord knows I wouldn't have wanted to sleep through that.
After some coaxing, the dogs are convinced that I can handle this imminent danger to life, limb, and the pursuit of happiness, and we all go back to bed.
But not to sleep. Oh, no. That would be too simple. And too kind, even.
15 minutes later, Nola, who is thrashing herself around in her Rat Terrier ritual that precedes sleep, manages to flip herself off the bed and on to the wood floor, where she lands with the resounding thud of a dog 10 times her actual weight.
Heart-rending screams split the quiet. All other dogs return to full alert and full volume. Cats scatter once more. Heart pounds. Sleep retreats swiftly.
Examine Nola for broken bones (none) and injuries (none) and return her to bed. Other dogs return to bed. I return to bed. Much grunting, sighing and turning around. Finally, silence settles.
7:00 am. Peaches moans piteously from her crate, a sound which generally means that she has a tummy issue and has to go outside RIGHT NOW. I stumble out of bed, and pull on a jacket. At the sight of me apparently getting dressed, the canine chorus erupts once more and my ankles are submerged in the tidal wave of dogs. All of whom are now insisting that, yes, they too, have to go outside RIGHT THIS VERY MINUTE!!!
I open the door to a swirling snowstorm. Everyone, and I mean everyone, recoils at the sight of the blizzard outside, and makes a U-turn for bed. Deciding that - you know what - they don't have to go quite as urgently as they thought they did five seconds ago.
No such luck. I pitch the lot of them outside, where they cringe and hunch their backs against the driving snow as they pee, all the while shooting me furtive looks of abandonment and abuse. You know the kind I mean. The squinty looks that suggests that you are the worst dog person on the planet, and that they are the unluckiest dogs ever born.
But my heart has been hardened by repeated false alarms. Pee they must, and pee they do. And are now happy to return to their respective warm beds.
Where we sleep undisturbed until a lazy 10:00 am this morning. Without another peep. From anyone.
Sometimes I can be a bitch too.
[dogs]
Dogs, dogs, dogs - 24,000 of 'em!
This bowler-hatted gent and 24,000 others like him from 32 countries are flocking to compete in the 2006 Crufts Dog Show, held in Birmingham, England. The cream of almost 200 breeds will be competing to succeed Coco, a Norfolk Terrier who was last year's winner of Best in Show.
Cruft's is sponsored and run by The UK Kennel Club, and they hold competitions for the both the purebred and the pooch. Like the Scruffts Competition specifically for the...crossbred companion.
And this year's competition features a Lady and the Tramp Look-a-like Competition, with a short list of 10 finalists. The dogs the will be judged on how closely they look and act like Tramp, Lady, Trusty or Jock, and will be asked to perform one of the following tasks:
Lady will be asked to fetch a newspaper for her owner.
Tramp will be asked to catch a toy that is thrown.
Jock will charm the judges by looking like a bonny wee lad in his tartan coat.
Trusty will prove he hasn’t lost his sense of smell by sniffing out a hidden treat.
The winner receives a year’s supply of Iams dog food. No word on whether the audience gets to vote, "American-Idol" style, for the winner.
The show is now in its 115th year, and attracts tens of thousands of visitors for its four days of competition. It is officially recognised as the world's largest dog show by the Guinness Book of Records, and has almost 400 trade stands offering visitors the latest dog-related products.
[dogs]
[dog news]
Oscar Goes to the Dog!
One of my favorite dogs (who cares that he's animated!) took home a Golden Boy last night. And I'm not talking about George Clooney...
The Oscar for Best Animated Feature Film went to Wallace & Gromit in The Curse of the Were-Rabbit. Using their own little fashion touch...co-directors Nick Park and Steve Box, the main clay manipulators behind Wallace & Gromit, placed gaudy striped bow ties that matched their own on their twin Oscars.
If you have somehow missed this marvelous little film, it follows the continuing adventures of Wallace, the cheese-loving inventor, and his literate, faithful sidekick dog, Gromit.
In their first full-length film, the duo's small English village suffers from a nightly scourge of ravenous rabbits. So Wallace designs the ultimate humane solution: an ultra-humane bunny-rabbit-sucker-upper known as the Bun-Vac 6000. (A spiral of bunnies swirling around in the transparent canister of the Bun-Vac 6000 is a vison to be treasured!)
Then, when the moon is full, there appears a monstrous rabbit with the strength of 10, teeth the size of ax blades and ears like terrible tombstones. Hapless hilarity ensues, with a nod to classic horror films, King Kong, and the obligatory car chase. There's even a romantic love triangle between eco-toff, Lady Tottington, milady's bloodthirsty suitor, Victor Quartermaine, and the genial and clueless Wallace.
Get the DVD, break out the popcorn, and curl up with your favorite sidekick pooch(s)for a couple of hours of a fun film!
Web site
[dogs]
The Muttly Crew - Dog Photos: Part 4
Pepito Mio, otherwise known as "Poodle-Thing" or "Little Dude". Was found in a yard with fighting pits, and was presumably scheduled to be used as a bait dog until Katrina intervened.
He was wearing a collar with tags, but when the shelter tracked down the owners, the owners said they didn't want him back. How anyone could not want this sweet Southern charmer is beyond me, because....Pepito is utterly adorable.
He loves to cuddle, and likes to sleep with some part of him touching some part of me. When he first arrived, I would wake in the morning to find him curled up around my head like a hat! He has since migrated further south, but still like to go to sleep snuggled in.
He adores Miss Peaches, and will curl up with her on one of the dog beds, preferably in the morning sun. He's something of a dreamy type, and when we're on walks he is easily distracted, and often finds himself left far behind the group. Poodle-Thing is no wuss, tho. He trucks along just fine on our long hill hikes, albeit at his own pace.
He has a healthy respect for the cats, and readily gives way to Angus or Clyde when he sees them coming. Probably because they both outweigh him.
Pepito was diagnosed as heartworm positive, and although we already went through one round of treatments, his most recent blood test showed positive again. This really sucks, because not only is the treatment very expensive where I live (it's rare, and the medication has to be special ordered, etc), he will have to be kept on extremely limited exercise for eight to ten weeks during the procedures. And he loves his walks!
My vet is looking into alternate protocols, since he's already been through the Immeticide treatments. The irony is that Pepito is completely asymptomatic - he shows no symptoms of the infection at all - and he's in great shape.
I guess we'll just handle this the same way we've handled everything else. We'll take it as it comes. However, if you want to send some luck, good wishes, and/or prayers our way, they sure would be greatly appreciated.
[dogs]
[dog health]
Yummy dog treats
My dogs love these easy homemade treats. Yes, I cook for my dogs, and okay, yes, my dogs are spoiled...
Bacon Flavored Dog Biscuit Treats
I N G R E D I E N T S
Yield: 40 dog biscuits
5 cups Whole wheat flour
1 cup Milk
2 Eggs
10 tablespoon Vegetable oil or bacon fat
1 pinch Onion or garlic powder
1 teaspoon Salt
1/2 cup Cold water
1 tablespoon Vegetable oil to grease pan
I N S T R U C T I O N S
Preheat your oven to 350 degrees.
Grease cookie sheets.
Mix all ingredients well. Pinch off pieces of the dough and roll them into two-inch balls. Bake biscuits at 350 degrees for 35 to 40 minutes. Let them cool, then store in an airtight container.
Originally from the Humane Society of Santa Clare Co., Santa Clara, CA.
[dogs]
[dog health]
Bacon Flavored Dog Biscuit Treats
I N G R E D I E N T S
Yield: 40 dog biscuits
5 cups Whole wheat flour
1 cup Milk
2 Eggs
10 tablespoon Vegetable oil or bacon fat
1 pinch Onion or garlic powder
1 teaspoon Salt
1/2 cup Cold water
1 tablespoon Vegetable oil to grease pan
I N S T R U C T I O N S
Preheat your oven to 350 degrees.
Grease cookie sheets.
Mix all ingredients well. Pinch off pieces of the dough and roll them into two-inch balls. Bake biscuits at 350 degrees for 35 to 40 minutes. Let them cool, then store in an airtight container.
Originally from the Humane Society of Santa Clare Co., Santa Clara, CA.
[dogs]
[dog health]
Dogs, Spring, and...Parvovirus
For dog owners, Spring means more than warmer weather and longer walks. It's also a time to be sure that your dog is up to date on his vaccines, including a vaccine for parvovirus.
Once contracted, parvovirus can kill in 48 to 72 hours after the first symptoms of depression, loss of appetite, vomiting, and severe diarrhea appear. Puppies, especially those between weaning and six months of age, are at increased riskof acquiring the disease. There also appears to be a higher risk in certain breeds (e.g. Rottweillers and Dobermans).
Parvovirus or "Parvo" is a highly contagious viral disease that attacks the dog's intestinal tract, white blood cells, and in some cases the heart muscle. Since first appearing in the 1960's canine parvovirus (CPV) infection, has appeared worldwide.
Parvo infection can only be transmitted to dogs and other canids, like wolves, but not to other types of animals or people. However animals and people can carry it to your dog.
The virus lives in the fecal waste of infected dogs, and is incredibly hardy and resistant to environmental conditions, surviving for months. Large amounts of the virus may be present in fecal material of infected dogs.
The first signs will most often appear 5-7 days after the dog is exposed to the virus. At the onset of illness, the feces will generally be light gray or yellow-gray. Sometimes, the first sign will be fluid feces streaked with blood.
If you see symptoms of Parvo take your dog to the vet immediately! Very few dogs survive an untreated Parvo infection.
Check your dog's vaccination records to make sure that he has received his Parvo shots. Once innoculated, dogs should get a yearly booster, especially if you regularly take them to areas where large numbers of dogs congregate. And that's not just dog parks, either; Parvo has even been found in show dog arenas and kennels.
If you have a puppy, be sure to include her Parvo vaccine. Puppies under the age of four months that have not been inoculated are at greatest risk.
Puppies generally get a series of shots to prevent the disease. Many veterinarians finish the series at 12 to 14 weeks, and some vets suggest that puppies be innoculated up to at least 22 weeks.
If you are unsure whether Parvo is affecting dogs in your local area, check with your veterinarian; they will be able to give you tips on areas to avoid. You can reduce the risk of exposure to your dog by not letting him step in or make contact with, the feces of other dogs.
And of course, do your part to prevent the spread of this deadly virus - Always Pick Up After Your Dog!
[dog health]
[dogs]
[puppies]
Once contracted, parvovirus can kill in 48 to 72 hours after the first symptoms of depression, loss of appetite, vomiting, and severe diarrhea appear. Puppies, especially those between weaning and six months of age, are at increased riskof acquiring the disease. There also appears to be a higher risk in certain breeds (e.g. Rottweillers and Dobermans).
Parvovirus or "Parvo" is a highly contagious viral disease that attacks the dog's intestinal tract, white blood cells, and in some cases the heart muscle. Since first appearing in the 1960's canine parvovirus (CPV) infection, has appeared worldwide.
Parvo infection can only be transmitted to dogs and other canids, like wolves, but not to other types of animals or people. However animals and people can carry it to your dog.
The virus lives in the fecal waste of infected dogs, and is incredibly hardy and resistant to environmental conditions, surviving for months. Large amounts of the virus may be present in fecal material of infected dogs.
The first signs will most often appear 5-7 days after the dog is exposed to the virus. At the onset of illness, the feces will generally be light gray or yellow-gray. Sometimes, the first sign will be fluid feces streaked with blood.
If you see symptoms of Parvo take your dog to the vet immediately! Very few dogs survive an untreated Parvo infection.
Check your dog's vaccination records to make sure that he has received his Parvo shots. Once innoculated, dogs should get a yearly booster, especially if you regularly take them to areas where large numbers of dogs congregate. And that's not just dog parks, either; Parvo has even been found in show dog arenas and kennels.
If you have a puppy, be sure to include her Parvo vaccine. Puppies under the age of four months that have not been inoculated are at greatest risk.
Puppies generally get a series of shots to prevent the disease. Many veterinarians finish the series at 12 to 14 weeks, and some vets suggest that puppies be innoculated up to at least 22 weeks.
If you are unsure whether Parvo is affecting dogs in your local area, check with your veterinarian; they will be able to give you tips on areas to avoid. You can reduce the risk of exposure to your dog by not letting him step in or make contact with, the feces of other dogs.
And of course, do your part to prevent the spread of this deadly virus - Always Pick Up After Your Dog!
[dog health]
[dogs]
[puppies]
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